Chania - A Precious Cretan Gem

Lunch hanging out to dry

I’ll be taking a trip on the way-back machine to 2008, but it’s a town as relevant today as it was a decade ago. Chania (or Hania, or better yet: Χανιά) is a gorgeous, yet rough-and-tumble city on the northwestern coast of the island of Crete--the largest of all the Greek islands. Rather similar to it's Mediterranean cousin to the northwest--I'm talking about Sicily--it also has quite its own culture that the native Cretans proudly differentiate from the rest of Greece. Chania is the capital of it's western province, and also hosts a large naval port to its eastern flank.Chania is a hustling and buzzing harbor city, as cool as it can be. At one time it was the capital city of the island, and that makes it special in the hearts of all Cretans. The city sits around a picture-perfect, if overly touristed, harbor, framed by elegant Venetian and Ottoman houses and a string of waterfront bars and tavernas.The mosque of Kioutsouk Hasan sits on one end, and a Venetian fortress sits on the other. And in the mix is the lighthouse of Chania, the icon of the city.

The old town, an atmospheric, pungent and crowded quarter, is characterized by narrow crisscrossing lanes full of tiny boutiques, souvenir and craft shops, and cozy restaurants and gelato shops. The streets are a delightful labyrinth of exploration for those of us who love getting lost and have time to throw agendas out the window. Find a patch of sunlight coming through the sunlight, you’ll likely stumble across the occasional lazy cat or napping dog. 

Chania old harbor, from the lighthouse 

Take a stroll into the Turkish quarter, and you’ll encounter a more vibrant, youthful energy of coffee shops, wine bars and hip and trendy restaurants. And you're bound to run into a minaret or two, if you're paying attention, that is.

Where to stay in Chania

Hotel Vilelmine from the church courtyard

My favorite place to lay my weary bones down is by far Hotel Vilelmine at 32 Betolo Street (GPS: 35.515036, 24.018013).

The hotel has a rustic, yet swanky feel and is situated right in the middle of the old town, right next to the Church of the Virgin Mary (Ιερός Ναός Εισοδίων της Θεοτόκου) or better known as the Trimartiri, Chania’s main church. 

Of course, you should be prepared for occasional (early) serenades of the church’s bells, but the charm of the hotel overcomes any aural inconvenience. Besides, you’ll have a ready-made alarm clock of classic proportions, gratis! 

At the Vilelmine, you may get
free entertainment, like the occasional wedding!

The Vilelmine is a former mansion of the Fournarakis family, whose construction began in 1898. The hotel is named after one of the daughters of this family, and is restored to look as it did in the early 1900’s.

Cafe in the Vilelmine

There is a café on the ground floor, where you can enjoy a light breakfast of yogurt with honey,fresh fruit and Greek pastries (and don't forget the coffee). It’s definitely a must, if you are in the mood for a luxurious, historical residence.

Eats and Drinks

"Well of the Turk" taverna

There are a plethora of tavernas and restaurants, cafes and bars to visit in Chania. One guarantee is that anything on the harbor will be laden with tourists and priced to match (that is, more inflated for the tourist crowd). Your best bet would be to venture more toward either the interior, or away from the city center/harbor area for an experience that the locals savor.

Well of the Turk at Sarpaki 1-3 (closed Tuesdays) is housed in a former Turkish hammam (bath), and is a romantic taverna that specializes in rich cuisine inspired by North African, Turkey and the Middle East, prepared with fresh ingredients sourced in Crete.
Apostolis I & II on Akti Enoseos in the east harbor (11:30am to 1am, May-Sept.; reduced hours rest of year) are highly respected locales located in two separate buildings near each other. Their specialties are fresh fish and Cretan cuisine. The more popular of the two is Apostolis II, since the owner is ever-present, but Apostolis I has a slightly less expensive menu. Both I and II have the same choices on their menus.

Thalassino Ageri (open from 7:30pm, April through mid-October), a fish tavern at Vivilaki 35, is off the beaten path, about 2km east of the city center, in Chania’s old tannery district. It is a delightful place to watch a sunset over the Mediterranean. Thalassino Ageri is regarded by many as one of the top fish eateries in Crete, with an ever-changing menu dictated by the day’s catch. Of course, kalamari is not to be missed at this spot. Take a taxi or if you would like to work up an appetite, follow El Venizelou, turning left at Noel St as soon as you veer away from the coast.

Shopping

Chania is widely considered the best place to shop in Crete. Within the labyrinthine streets are a plethora of tiny handicraft stores, boutiques and markets. The covered market in the heart of the old town is good for local flair, where you’ll find Cretan honey, olives, meats and cheese, as well as handmade trinkets and souvenirs.

The covered market in
old town Chania

Nearby Skridlof Street touts numerous leatherworkers hawking quality, affordable, leather goods made by hand. They have many more purses, handbags and shoes, but you are bound to find other leather goods. Ceramics and glassware are Chania specialties as well. You may stumble upon a non-descript place to get some interesting souvenirs that are practical, and enjoy some animated conversation with the locals, some of which had spent considerable time in the USA.

Day-Tripping or Getting Out of Town
A lovely, if somewhat crowded beach is the city beach (Nea Chora Beach) just west of the center, easily accessible by foot (2km or 25 minutes along Akti Kinari, to keep your eyes on the prize—the turquoise Mediterranean waters, in this case; otherwise, the hike is less lengthy and more direct going through town). Take water and your beach equipment with you. Sure, there are even lovelier beaches on the western side of Crete, but you can’t beat the convenience of going by foot!

Stavros, on a chilly October morning.

For a slice of cinematic history, take a bus from the central bus station (at Kelaidi 25-27) to Stavros Beach on the Akrtotiri peninsula. One characteristic feature of the area is a very steep camel-backed mountain rising opposite Stavros harbor. Here, several scenes from “Zorba the Greek” were filmed (especially those where Anthony Quinn danced his Sirtaki Dance) in 1964, when Stavros was a tiny fishing village.

The beach itself is crescent-shaped. A word to the wise, though: based upon personal experience, the weather in mid-October is chilly (no wonder there weren’t any open tavernas there!), so if you really have a jones to re-create Zorba’s dance, bundle up! And know the bus timetables (although timeliness is relative in Greece—just be aware that schedules are “nice to have’s” and not “musts”).

If you want to really hit the road for some serious sun time, try Paleochora on the southern coast (accessible by bus or car). Or backtrack to Rethymnon Province to the southern coast and one of the most unique beaches around: Preveli Beach.

Preveli -- a river runs through it

Be aware that it is approximately 2-3 hours by car from Chania, so your best bet is to put this on your list when visiting the southern part of Rethymnon Province for a few days).

In a Nutshell...

All told, Chania was one of our favorite destinations in Crete, and for good reason: atmosphere, culture all around, and seafood! It is a must-visit if you are willing to take off for Crete. If the city is all you want to savor, give yourself at least two days, but longer stays with the occasional road trip is where the pleasurable Chania experience is!

Getting there: Chania International Airport (CHQ) is accessible from several major European cities and from Athens and Thessaloniki. It is located 14 km east of Chania on the Akrotiri peninsula.

Ferries also arrive at the local deep water port for Chania, Souda, also near the airport. There are daily ferries are primarily from Piraeus, near Athens, and require overnight passage. Be aware that ferry strikes may take place from time to time, so be flexible when choosing the ferry transportation method.