It seems like all tourists in Sicily come from the Italian boot; you
would be hard-pressed to hear English, German, Russian or any other non-Romance
language among the crowd. The truth is, Sicily is popular with Italians and
non-Italians alike. And Cefalu, a crossroads of civilizations--like much of
Sicily--is no different.
Cefalu is a medieval town at heart, with its center reflecting the
epitome of the Norman epoch. The town is magical: labyrinthene alleyways,
town walls that reach down to the sea, villas dating from different periods of
the city's history, and a delightful, if crowded, beach just outside of the
medieval city.
To appreciate Cefalu, one must also understand the amalgamation of
civilizations that make up the island of Sicily: Greek, Roman, Moor, French,
Spanish, and, of course, Italian. The centerpiece of Cefalu--the Cathedral, or,
known by its more formal name: Basilica Cattedrale della Trasfigurazione--was
begun in the early 12th century. True to its Norman origins, it resembles more
of a fortress than a place of worship. But step inside, and you will be treated
to a bright and brilliant mixture of artwork and cultures! The Byzantine
mosaics are intricate and geometrically precise. Many seem to resemble patterns
found in mosques of Ottoman Empire. The interior's gold leaf somehow recreates
a heavenly brightness that would otherwise be blocked out by the fortress-like
structure. But perhaps a look might do more justice than mere words.
When walking the cobblestones of the old town becomes too much of a
burden on your feet and legs, then stop by Lilie’s Club (at 21 via Bagni
Cicerone) for a lovely Sicilian Rosé and some fantastic people watching. And
when the sun goes down over the Tyrrhenean Sea, sit down for more wine and a
great wood fire pizza at Al Gabbiano (17 Lungomare Giussepe Giardina) before
hiking back, as we did, to our delightful respite, Bouganville B&B. Believe
me, after the meal at Al Gabbiano, the hike will come in handy!
However, if you have time available (and a change to swimwear), do not
overlook a chance to take a dip in the sea at the city beach, Spiaggia Cefalu.
Depending upon the date, it may be crowded (as it was in late July), but the
water is warm and the view of the old town is not to be denied!
In a nutshell, Cefalu is a gem among the gems of Sicily, and not to be
missed. I will make it my life’s mission to come back to this delightful town.
Let it be your mission to visit!
Peace, everyone!
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